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Hawaiian Vacation for Two!
Hawai'i's Gift to the World
By Amy Huyett Published: 02/02/2008
Surfing has come a long way from the ceremonial chants and hand carved 24- foot wood boards of ancient Hawai‘i. The boards have gotten shorter and the board shorts are longer, but the passion for surfing remains stronger than ever. Hawai‘i is regarded as the birthplace of surfing. Thousands of years later it's still deeply rooted in the local culture and lifestyle providing surfers immense enjoyment and a profound connection to nature. Over the last century, its popularity has spread to reach millions around the globe. It now represents a multi-billion dollar industry and is a thriving part of today's world culture.
One can only guess the exact origin and evolution of surfing in Polynesian history, as there is no accurate documentation about the timeline and movement of Polynesians. But the first European record of surfing in Hawai‘i came from Lieutenant King James, who completed Captain Cook's journals after his death in 1779 and discovered two full pages devoted to Cook's descriptions of locals surfing on the Kona coast of the Big Island. By this time surfing was already layered in many centuries of Hawaiian legend and daily life. Hawaiian society was strictly divided into royal and common classes and this separation extended into surf zones. The most famous chiefs gained respect by showing courage and skill in big surf. They rode different, longer boards (up to 24 feet) crafted out of premium wood and a commoner was risking his life to “drop in” on a chief's wave.
The arrival of the Europeans brought significant change to Hawai‘i. The local traditions and cultural practices were discouraged or even forbidden, and as a result, surfing came close to extinction. But a group of skilled watermen growing up on Oahu in the early 1900's known as the “Beach Boys of Waikiki” led by Duke Kahanamoku helped revive the sport and is largely responsible for its current popularity.
The North Shore of Oahu might have Pipeline and Sunset, but Maui definitely holds its own when it comes to worldclass surf breaks. During winter, particularly November through January, huge swells hit the north shore break Peahi, also known as Jaws, where wave heights can reach 50+ feet. Jaws has achieved world-wide fame for being at the forefront of the tow-in surfing revolution—being towed into the wave by a jet ski versus paddling—because of its monstrous size and wave quality.
Honolua Bay, located on the upper west side past Kapalua, is known for its beautiful right-hand point breaks. It is home to the Billabong Pro Maui, the final event on the ASP Women's Professional Surfing World Tour every December where some of the best women surfers in the world showcase their talent. And Ma‘alaea Harbor on the south shore has one of the most legendary and elusive waves on the planet... Freight Trains.
Between the months of April and September powerful storms form off the eastern coast of New Zealand generating tremendous swell that travels north 4,000 miles to Hawai‘i. If it's powerful enough and the direction is just right, the swell will find its way into Ma‘alaea Harbor. It doesn't happen very often, but when it does, the fastest rideable wave in the world brings out some of the biggest names in surfing. With firing right-handed barrels, riding in the tube is the ultimate goal and the only way to keep up with the pace of the wave. Many surfers can make it in the barrel, but it's so fast that very few make it out. When any of these waves break, watching surfers masterfully carve up and down the massive walls of water is truly remarkable.
A trip to Hawai‘i isn't complete unless you experience the thrill of wave riding yourself. Kihei is home to one of the best beginning surf spots on the island, Kalama Park. The conditions are almost always friendly with small, gentle waves and shallow water. Taking a surf lesson is highly recommended, especially if it's your first time, and there are plenty of surf schools to choose from. Experienced instructors will teach you fundamentals both on and off the board and have you hanging ten in no time.
Locations
Maui
Photo Gallery - Hawai'i's Gift to the World
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